How to repair a roof leak and patch roofing leaks ( for homeowner's free how to video's
WE WILL SHOW YOU HOW TO REPAIR YOUR ROOF OR INSTALL SHINGLES and find leaks... ((free videos ))on how to do it your self... $$Save thousand of dollars now... $$
Shingle roofs are usually easy to fix. At the marked leak point, look for damaged, curled, or missing shingles. At every place where two surfaces meet and around every chimney or vent, look for breaks in the flashing or caulking or for gaps in the lines of roof cement.
What You'll Need
Here are some of the tools you'll need for replacing shingles:
Pry bar
Scraper
Replacement shingle
Utility knife
6d galvanized roofing nails
Hammer
Asphalt roof cement
Trowel
If you can't see any damage to the shingles or flashing in the leak area, you'll have to call a professional roofer; the problem may be inadequate flashing or simply deterioration of the shingles.
If you find evidence of shingle problems, repairs are fairly simple. Curled-back shingles can be reattached with asphalt roof cement or compound in tubes for use with a caulking gun. In warm weather, you can easily straighten out the curled shingle. In cold weather, shingles become very brittle and must be softened before they can be flattened out.
To soften a brittle shingle, carefully use a propane torch with a flame-spreader nozzle. Apply the flame carefully to the curled edges of the shingle; it should get just warm enough to soften but not hot enough to catch fire. Then flatten the edges of the shingle.
To reattach the shingle, apply roof cement generously to the bottom; a good dollop of cement at each corner is usually enough.
Press the shingle firmly into place.
If shingles are torn, rotten, or missing, they should be replaced with new ones. Any shingle that lifts right off the roof with no effort is rotten and should be replaced.
If you find a large area of rotten shingles, you may need a whole new roof. If so, consider calling a professional roofer. Otherwise, replace the damaged shingles with shingles left over
from the previous roof installation.
If you can't get matching shingles, you can
make do with nonmatching ones. In an emergency, cut shingle-size patches from sheet aluminum or copper.
Round the corners of the new shingle and slide it up into the gap.
To replace damaged shingles:
Step 1: To remove damaged shingle, lift edges of surrounding shingles, and carefully remove nails with pry bar. Slide out old shingle. If there's loose or brittle roof cement left under it, scrape opening clean. When shingles are blown off by a storm, remove any protruding nails left in roof. Nails that don't stick up can be left in place. Step 2: To make it easier to slide new shingle into place, slightly round its back corners with sharp utility knife. Step 3: Slide new shingle into gap, with its front edge aligned with shingles on each side and its back edge under shingles in row above it. Step 4: Lift corners of overlapping shingles and fasten top of new shingle with 6d galvanized roofing nails driven through each corner. Cover nail heads with roof cement, then smooth down overlapping shingle edges.
Roof-repair Safety Tips
Working on a roof can be dangerous. Keep these safety precautions in mind before tackling a roof repair:
Roof repairs should be done on a sunny day when the roof is completely dry. A wet roof is slippery and very dangerous.
Adequate safety measures must be taken for any roof repairs. Always use safety ropes.
On steep roofs, use a ladder framework to provide secure anchoring.
Rubber-soled shoes provide the best traction when working on a roof.
The location of power lines should be kept in mind when working on a roof.
If you're replacing rows of shingles, you only need to round the back corners where the top row meets the row above. Ridge shingles, the tent-shape shingles along the peak of a roof, can be replaced the same way. Overlap them along the ridge and over the shingles on both sides. Do not try to use flat shingles; you must use new ridge shingles. Cover the back of each new ridge shingle with roof cement before setting it into place. Secure each corner of the shingle with a roofing nail, and cover the nail heads with roof cement.
After replacing the damaged shingles or if the shingles are undamaged, inspect the chimney flashing, the flashing around vents or vent pipes, and any line of roof cement where two surfaces meet.
If the metal flashing around a chimney or dormer is not thoroughly caulked, fill the joints with roof cement in a caulking gun. Along joints sealed with a line of roof cement, apply roof cement with a putty knife to areas that look worn or cracked. Apply the cement liberally, covering the questionable areas completely. If there are any exposed nail heads in the flashing, cover them with roof cement.
Flat roofs and shake roofs have their own set of unique leak problems -- and unique ways of conquering these issues. Read the next section for helpful tips about repairing leaks on these types of roofs.
how to repair and fix a roof leak , roofing expert '' what to use and how to fix (( VIDEO)) free
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
* Flashing Cement And Putty Knife
* Binoculars
* Binoculars
* Bucket And String
* Extension Ladder
* Long Tape Measure
* Powerful Flashlight
* Roof Ladder
* Screwdriver Or Drill And Drill Bit
Locate the leak from inside
1.
Step 1
The first and perhaps most obvious place to look for a roof leak is directly above the leak in a ceiling or exterior wall. Use a flashlight to inspect the attic floor over the leak while it's raining. Look for standing water, water stains, mold, wet insulation or other exposed insulation.
2.
Step 2
Examine the underside of the roof for wetness or mold around points of penetration (plumbing vents, chimneys), wherever different roof planes intersect (valleys) and near dormers. These symptoms indicate holes in the flashing or faulty flashing installation.
3.
Step 3
A leak away from such locations suggests a problem in the roofing material. Keep in mind that water may travel sideways before passing through a joint in the roof sheathing, and may travel in a horizontal joint before falling on the floor or ceiling.
4.
Step 4
Take measurements from points inside that you can also locate from outside. Measure down from a ridge and horizontally from the center of a valley or sidewall; or measure distances from a chimney or other point of penetration.
5.
Step 5
If your ceiling is attached to roof rafters, as would be the case for a cathedral ceiling, all you can do from inside is take the measurements that will help you locate the leak externally, and attempt to control the damage internally.
Control the damage
6.
Step 1
Water can travel on the underside of sheathing or down roof rafters before dropping off in one or more places. To control where it falls, tack a piece of string into the stream of water and let it hang into a bucket. The water will tend to follow the string.
7.
Step 2
Poke or drill a hole in your ceiling to let the water through. This technique prevents the water from spreading across the top of the ceiling to other areas; it prevents the ceiling from becoming saturated, eliminating the chance of collapse and often the need for replacement; and it allows you to collect water from below using the string-and-bucket method.
Locate the leak from outside
8.
Step 1
Using any measurements or other information you gathered indoors, make your initial outdoor observations from a ladder and/or using binoculars. Do not walk on a pitched roof during rain or as long as the roof is wet. A wood roof is particularly treacherous.
9.
Step 2
Look for leaves and other debris slowing the natural downward flow of water, as often happens in valleys and adjacent to or above any roof penetration or dormer. If there is snow on the roof, an ice dam may have formed at the roof's lower edge, causing water to back up under overlapping layers of roofing materials. Remove the obstruction if you can get to it safely.
10.
Step 3
If or when you can safely get close enough, examine metal flashings for corrosion or open joints where they connect to a chimney or other roof penetration. You can temporarily patch metal flashings, but replacement is the only permanent solution. Typically, you can replace cracked or dried-out rubber gaskets on plumbing vents.
11.
Step 4
Pay particular attention to any areas already covered with black flashing cement; these indicate locations of previously repaired leaks. Look for pinholes or cracks, which often occur as the material ages. Make temporary repairs by applying flashing cement with a putty knife.
12.
Step 5
If or when you can safely get close enough, inspect attachment points for any antenna, satellite dish or other object screwed or nailed into the roof. A dab of roof flashing in good condition should cover each fastener. The best solution is to avoid mounting anything on your roof in the first place.
13.
Step 6
If you determined from inside that your leak is midroof and therefore not related to flashing, look for damaged or missing asphalt shingles. On wood roofs, look for cracked or badly cupped or warped shingles or shakes. Look for joints in one course that fall less than 11/2 inches (4 cm) to the left or right of a joint in the course below. Flat or nearly flat roofs generally require very close inspection to locate damaged or badly worn areas.
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